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QINGHAI PROVINCE SURROUNDED BY
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QINGHAI
XINING
Tibetan Amdo encompasses a large area from the Machu River (Yellow River) to the Drichu river (Yangtse). Amdo was and is the home of many important
Tibetan Buddhist monks (great lamas),
and scholars who had a major influence on both the politics and religious development of Tibet.
Holy
men like the
14th Dalai Lama, the
10th Panchen Lama, and the great reformer Je
Tsongkhapa were born or lived in Amdo. For Tibetans, Amdo was traditionally a place of great learning and scholarship
that included many great monasteries. Still in tact, and one
of the highlights for visitors is the Kumbum Jampa Ling
Monastery (Chinese name - Ta'er Si) near Xining. While culturally and ethnically
Amdo is a Tibetan area, it has been annexed into
the Chinese provinces of Gansu,
Sichuan and Qinghai.
Qinghai is located on
the northeastern part of the Tibetan Plateau. The average
elevation of Qinghai is over 3000 meters above sea level
(800 meters higher than Xining).
Qinghai, named after the largest lake in China, Qinghai
Lake, is one of the most diverse and beautiful Tibetan areas
with numerous national parks, temples and tombs.
Included in Qinghai Province
are the cities of Golob, Haibei, Hainan, Haixi, Haixi,
Huangnan and Yushu.
Yushu (the city) is a predominantly
Tibetan city. Keep in mind, there are many dialects of the
Tibetan language spoken in Amdo due to the
traditional geographical isolation of many tribal groups. However the written
Tibetan language is the same throughout Tibet. Don't be surprised if your
Tibetan guide has a
difficult time communicating in some of these remote areas!
Be assured, they can communicate, but it takes more effort,
more time, more sentences. The Tibetan inhabitants of Amdo
are referred to as Amdowa (amdo pa) as a regional distinction from the Tibetans
of Kham (Khampa) and U-Tsang (Central Tibet), however, they are all considered
ethnically Tibetan.
It's a bit of a secret, but
the Tibetan areas around Xining have some of the best
preserved Tibetan cultural regions remaining, especially if
you are willing to go a bit off the beaten path with your
guide. You can stay with nomads
in their tents and live their ancient lifestyle for a
few days, you can sleep overnight in a monastery or nunnery,
you can witness traditional (not put on for tourists)
festivals in remote villages,
you can visit traditional Tibetan farmers and see their
operation, you can go mountain trekking or boating or
hiking. You take take photos while sitting on fancy-fitted
yaks and camels, you can even see the fluffiest clouds on
earth. But many of these things require a sense of adventure
and a willingness to rough it a bit, but I promise you will
come away a changed person with emotionally-stirring
memories that may soon be unable to experience. Come now
while there is still tradition and color and wonder, come
visit this magnificent Tibetan
culture before it merges into the mass of Chinese
influence and is forever a lost civilization. Come while
there are still monks living in the monasteries and nomads
living in tents. Come smell the wonder of pristine mountain
air at the roof of the world.
Xining, known as Silung
in Tibetan, is the largest Chinese city on the Tibetan Plateau. It
is actually located on the eastern edge of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.
This land mass is the traditional Tibetan province of Amdo. It is
now the political, cultural, economic, scientific and
technological center of Qinghai Province. With an average
altitude (be prepared with a high factor sun block to defend
against sun burn) of over 2200 meters (about 7217 feet),
it's a good place to acclimate before venturing into higher
parts of the plateau.
Xining
is an ideal point for visiting Tibetan areas of China
that are not in the
TAR, but if you have asthma be sure to bring an
inhaler as the smog is so thick on some days that an
asthmatic should not go outside without an air mask! On a
clear evening after a cool summer rain, Xining is quite
picturesque back dropped by a magnificent mountain range. As
the sun sets and a myriad of neon lights that highlight
important structures come on, Xining offers tourists a
different flavor. With the unique Chinese streetlamps and
dancing in the park every night of the week, Xining sparkles
with life, love and excitement.
Xining is the first city on the upper reaches of the
Yellow River to have a population counting in the
millions (1.2 - 2?). There are about 37 fascinating nationalities living
here, including Tibetan (10%), but it seems mostly a Chinese
city. Almost all the shops and businesses are owned by
Chinese proprietors. The city itself has a strong Islamic flavor
and it is interesting to visit Islamic areas, mosque and
restaurants. You will
start getting a more Tibetan feel as you move away from the city in the poorer
rural areas and near the
Tibetan Buddhist monasteries. The local
traditions and customs witnessed in Xining are influenced by these distinctive
nationalities, in particular the Hui (Muslim) and Tibetan
groups.
Xining
can be quite cold and snowy in the winter, but between May and
September it is one of the most pleasant cities in all of
China with an average high of 22C / 72F (You'll need a
sweater for evenings).
Xining is an excellent place to regroup, load up with
supplies, and map out travel or trekking plans. With
mountains lying sharply to
the north of the city, and desolate plains stretching before
it, Xining is a welcoming staging point for trekkers to
areas beyond.
Xining Museum
The Qinghai Museum is located at No.4 Weimin
Alleyway, Xining. Over 10,000 exhibits are displayed for
those interested in the Chinese version of local history and
ethnic relationships.
The collection of relics includes Mongolian pottery, Tibetan
mani-stones (stones carved with religious prayers and
images), and bronze coins from the Han dynasty. The
permanent exhibition also features a display of traditional
clothing and architecture from minority ethnic groups in
Qinghai, including Tibetans, Mongolians, Hui, and the
lesser-known groups like the Tu and Sala. If you have time
on your hands and it's a cold day, stop by and enjoy the
indoor warmth and pretty displays.
QINGHAI
ATTRACTIONS
Kumbum Jampa Ling Monastery/Ta'er (Gelugpa/yellow hat sect)
In commemorating the founder of the Yellow Hat Sect of
Tibetan Buddhism, Tsong Khapa (1357-1419), the Kumbum Jampa
Ling
Monastery was built in 1577 more than 150 years after his
death. In the Tibetan language,
Kumbum Jampa Ling is translated as 'gongben', which means
'10,000 figures of Buddha'.
more
Qinghai Lake/Bird Island
Whether it is the astounding aqua blue color or the mere
mass of this lake, Qinghai Lake is the largest inland salt water lake in
all of Tibet and China. It lies northwest of the imposing
Qinghai Altiplano (plains), and 150 km (93.21 miles) away from Xining in
Qinghai Province. The name Qinghai means blue and it's a
blue you'll remember the rest of your life. The
kingdom of birds
on the island nearby, which can sometimes be
more than ten thousand in the summer, it really a stunning
sight. more
Temple of Princess Wencheng
On the way to Qinghai Lake you'll be able to stop and see
the tribute built to the Chinese Princess who married a
Tibetan King. There is a fairy tale saying
that the lake was pooled by the tears of Princess Wencheng.
more
Nanzong Nunnery in Kanbula Park With
a total area of 7,200 hectares,
Kanbula National Forest
Park is located in the northwest of Jianzha County
and beside the Lijiaxia Reservoir area.
You can get there by local bus from Xining, passing through
Tibetan villages along the way. Outside the park is a small
town with a hotel, or try sleeping at the cafe next to the
river on cushions in a private dining room they can make
into sleeping quarters for the night!
It is difficult to describe this massive red-rock area with
spires and vertical columns,
towering like castles, unless you've been to Bryce National
Park in Utah, USA. Still, at such a high altitude and with
so much massiveness, overlooking the astounding azure blue
reservoir as you climb the switchbacks, there is truly no
comparison to the stunning awe of this place. There's a
daily fee now with time limits, so start early.
more
Liuwan Tombs
Located in the interesting Liuwan Village in Gaomiao Town of
Ledu County, 80 kilometers from Xining, is the largest set
of well-preserved tombs from
primitive times. The tombs cover
an area of 110,000 square meters. Astonishingly, there are
over 1,500
tombs with 30,000 relics! The cultures included in this
discovery include Majiayao, Machang, Jijia, and Xindian. The
unearthed articles include such things as the ancient axe, adx,
chisel, and knife, as well as pottery articles the people
used for daily
preparation of food and medicines. Don't miss seeing the
highly-valued painted pottery statue. Ask the
local guide for more
information.
Tibet
Shashung Monastery
Shashung
Monastery currently houses 350 monks. Founded in 1349 this
is one of the oldest standing monasteries in the region. Not
a tourist attraction, it is really cool to spend some time
watching the monks go about their daily business of working,
chanting and praying. This is not on any pre-packaged tour
so ask if you are interested.
Annual International Bicycle race The Qinghai Lake International Cycling Race has been held in July or August
annually in Qinghai province since 2002. In Asia, this race has
become known as one of the highest-leveled, largest-scaled
and highest altitude of all bicycle races in this part of
the world. The race is 1354 km in distance and an
average of 3000 meters in altitude and lasts for 7 to 10 days. The
route is designed with the Qinghai Lake as the hub. What
makes this race so popular is the opportunity for the
cyclists to enjoy the magnificent natural scenery en route
A'Nyemaqen Mountain
There
is not much to say that this photo doesn't tell. Tucked
between mountain ranges lies a sleepy little village waiting
to enchant you. The surrounding beauty, the verdant green
hills of summer, the snow-capped magnificence in winter will
make you want to hang up your hat here and never go home.
Not the easiest to access, but by far one of the most
beautiful areas of the Tibetan Plateau, A'Nyemaqen Mountain
is a world wonder not to be found outside of Switzerland! This area,
along with 14 other mountain ranges in Qinghai are open to
mountaineers. Ask Kalsang
for more details.
Highland Xishuangbanna' Mengda Nature Reserve
There is no other place quite like Mengda Nature Reserve.
The mere diversity of highland animals, flora and flocks of
birds found in the area could keep a traveler here for
months. The snow-topped spikes of lofty mountain peaks, icy
natural formations, vastly distinct deserts and colorful
green pastures makes this place a photographers paradise.
North Mountain Temple/Beishan Si
A Taoist Temple of interest, this fourteen-hundred-year-old
North Mountain Temple
(Beishan si, or Beichan si) is situated on a mountain known
by the
same name to the north of the Huangshui River. It is one of the
few Taoist temples in the mostly Tibetan Buddhist Qinghai province.
Truly, the view of the city from here is worth the visit. A
pleasant peaceful hike awaits you!
Sun & Moon Mountain
Northeast of the Qinghai Lake in the Huangyuan Prefecture of east of
Qinghai Province, the Sun and Moon Mountain belongs to the Qilian Mountain chain.
This mountain peak marks the boundary between the eastern
agricultural area and the western pastoral area of Qinghai
Province. It's a bit of a hike, but on a clear day from the top of the mountain there is a
splendid
panorama of this beautiful landscape - prairie,
farmland and mountains.
Kekexili Nature Reserve (Kokoxili) Kekexili, one of the most mysterious and least inhabited areas of
Qinghai province is open to tourists, but for the protection
of the environment the number of tourists allowed to visit
the region is apparently limited to 1,000 each year.
Interestingly, every year a
large number of female antelopes migrate to Kekexili to give
birth; about one month later they return with their
offspring. Those migrating between Kekexili and the Three
Rivers Reserve need to cross the Tibetan Railway using one
of the fifteen wildlife passageways built during the
construction of the railway. There is no way to tell if
you'll get to see the antelopes. Get permits in advance.
Sanjiangyuan Nature Reserve
This is likely the reserve with the most mountains, lakes,
swamps, rivers and streams at their origins.
The Sanjiangyuan lies as a
large area in the south of Qinghai and is one of the world's
largest wetlands. The majesty created by the glaciers and
snow-capped peaks surrounding this area is indescribable.
Known as a paradise for large varieties of flora and fauna,
this reserve attracts naturalists and photographers alike.
Just sit along the edge of a hill and wait. The stage before
you fills with native animals going about their daily
routine, who luckily aren't bothered by the click of the
camera. The Sanjiangyuan Nature Reserve isn't in a rush, and
neither should you be. Take your time and enjoy!
Three Rivers' Fountainheads Nature Reserve One of the most fascinating aspects of
Three Rivers is that is has the highest concentration of
biologically diverse high altitude animals in the world.
Three River's Fountainheads is meant to protect the sources of the
Yangtze River, Yellow River and Lancang
River. It covers
318,000 square kilometers with the core area covering
620,000 square kilometers, with a buffer zone covering 50,000
square kilometers and an experiment area covering 206,000
square meters. This is the largest nature reserve in Asia.
It includes 16 counties and 5.6 million people. There are more than 70
different wild species indigenous to Qinghai and Tibet including
Tibetan antelopes and Tibetan wild donkeys. If you must
choose just one reserve in Qinghai, this would naturally be
it, but only if you have time to smell the roses!
Great Mosque of Xining/ Dongguan Build in the eastern urban area of Xining City, the Dongguan Mosque was built
in 1380. It's one of the largest in Qinghai, covering a floor space of
12,000 square meters. It has an assembly prayer hall that can hold up to 3,000
people. Quite impressive, even from the exterior, as seen here. Situated among
the hustle and bustle of the city, with taxis and cars
dodging each other and people rushing to their destinations,
this place offers a contrast to the chaos. Inside, the
peacefulness must feel like the breath of life, the reliever
of stress. Worth a visit.
Beichan Temple
Pretty as a picture with active saints, Beichan Temple, also
called Tuloushan, is located on the North Hill in Xining.
Beichan was first built during the Northern Wei period
(386-534) on the hillside atop dangerous rocks. Featuring
Buddhist architecture and Taoist architecture styles, it is
renowned by its name. A Bright Pearl on the Southern Path of
the Silk Road. In the temple, there are nine grottoes and 18
caves, with painted patterns of sunken panels, murals, and
statues of Buddha. The architectural structure of the
two-story main building is unique and exquisite. The cable
car at the foot leads to the top of the hill, where people
can enjoy a panoramic view of the city of Xining.
Beichan National Park
Seventy kilometers northeast of the Tu Autonomous County of
Huzhu, 100 kilometers from Xining, the Beishan National Park
has more than 1,000 species of plants and 100 species of
wild animals. With over five varied areas, the park boasts
over 30 scenic spots, such as the Maple Leaves at Daban, the
Snow View at Yuanpu, the Ancient Pines at Qinggang, and the
Frog and Rain at Shilong. There are well-equipped tourist
service- facilities, such as a guesthouse, the Mountain
Village at Shilong, a Tent Hotel, a restaurant, and a dance
hall.
Mt. Nianbaoyuze
Known also as Mt. Guoluo, Mt. Nianbaoyuze Mountains is holy
to the local Tibetans who live on the Guoluo Grassland
areas. It is located 40 kilometers southwest of Jigzhi
County, and is the main peak on the southeastern section of
Mt. Bayan Har. Nianbaoyuze is composed of many peaks 4,000
meters above sea level. The main peak is located in the
southwestern monsoon zone, with an annual rainfall of 700mm,
a place with the most rainfall in Qinghai. In the southeast,
there are virgin forests of pines
and firs. Birds are numerous. The ravines are home to snow
leopards, brown dears, and lynx. It is believed that the
mountain is the birthplace of the local Tibetans.
Da Tsi
- Archery Competition
During
February each year, there is an interesting archery
competition in a small village, not far from Xining, but
it's only by invitation foreigners are welcome. Not only do
they show off their skills with traditional Tibetan Bows and
Arrows, they have evening celebrations of song and dance. If
you're heading to Xining in February and you're using our
guide, Kalsang, you
will be in for the treat of a lifetime, a rare experience
among Tibetan farmers and nomads where you are the ONLY
tourist!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yangtse River
Ice Peaks
The Changjiang (Yangtze) River descends from the glaciers at
the northwestern foot of the snow-capped Geladandong, the
main peak of Tanggula Mountains. Twenty-one ice peaks tower
6,000 meters above sea level, forming the Tuotuo River, the
origin of the Yangtze. Among the forest of ice peaks people
can enjoy the superlative craftsmanship of nature - the
crystal ice "sculptures" of towers, bridges, and mushrooms.
The best season is June through September.
Tu
Village - Home of the Rainbow
Located in Weiyuan Town, the seat of the Tu Autonomous
County of Huzhu, 30 kilometers from Xining, the Tu Village
has more than 100 families
with over 500 inhabitants. The villagers
speak their own language, and have very unique traditions
and culture. They are talented singers and dancers. The Tu
women are good at embroidery, and their clothes are joined
together with pieces of cloth in blue, black, yellow, white,
and red, embodying the sky, the earth, harvest, good luck,
and enthusiasm. Hence, the county is known as Home of the
Rainbow.
Four Villages
The four villages including Shangxia Wutun, Nianduhu,
Gasairi, and Guomari, in Tongren County, Tibet Autonomous
Prefecture of Huangnan, are known as home to Buddhist
paintings and sculptures. The villages themselves, the
villagers and their traditional wear is worth a visit.
Popular some 700 years ago, the techniques of Regong art
have been utilized in beautifying people's lives and can be
found almost everywhere - on the walls, bricks, stones,
clothes, and buildings.
Dunhuang & Chaka Salt Lake
The world-known Chaka Salt Lake covers an area of 5,868
square kilometers with 6 billion tons of mineral deposits.
Originally the Chaka Salt Lakes (Chaka yanhu
- meaning the sea of salt in Mongolian language) ) were part
of the ocean in primordial times, and were formed during the
intense crust activity that resulted in the formation of the
largest plateau in the world, the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.
It is the leader in deposits of potassium,
magnesium, lithium, and sodium, and is the largest salt
producer in the country. The Qinghai-Tibet Highway, the
highest of its kind in the world, runs through the salt
lake. The colorful world of salt forms a unique display on
the highland lake, attracting visitors from all parts of the
world.
The highlight of the lakes are their
reflective surfaces, that mirror the passing clouds, the
distant mountains and the nomad's tents and herds found
around the area. Tourists can take the train to the salt
farm, watch the mining of salt, and various salt crystals in
the shape of pearls, corals, snowflakes, and mushrooms.
The Salt Bridge, 60 kilometers north of the
downtown area spans over 32 kilometers. Entirely laid with
salt, the bridge is straight, flat, and smooth. The bridge
is an amazing sight, although only really worth the visit
for those heading towards Dunhuang and the amazing Mogao
Grottoes.
Mogao
Grottoes
The Mogao Caves, or Mogao Grottoes (also known as the Caves
of the Thousand Buddhas and Dunhuang Caves) form a system of
492 temples 25 kilometers (15.5 miles) southeast of the
center of Dunhuang. This place is an oasis strategically
located at a religious and cultural crossroads on the Silk
Road, in Gansu province. The caves contain some of the
finest examples of Buddhist art. While spanning a period of
1,000 years, it isn't hard to wonder how this remote place
attracts so many tourists every year. Construction of the
Buddhist cave shrines began in 366 AD, build to store
scriptures and art. The Mogao Caves are the best known of
the Buddhist grottoes.
Longbaotan Nature Reserve
Located 80 kilometers northwest of Jiegu Town, the
Longbaotan Nature Reserve is a long narrow basin hemmed in
by mountains. With an area of 100 square kilometers, this
place if for the birds, LITERALLY! There are five lakes,
many springs and small islands to delight the birds and
bird-watching community. The advantageous natural condition
makes it an ideal home for birds and aquatic animals and
plants. The black-necked cranes seen here are considered
holy and bring the viewer good luck and happiness. Check out
the bar-headed geese and brown-headed gulls who come to
breed every March and April.
Mengda Heavenly Pond
Located in the east of Jishi Town, Xunhua County, 150
kilometers from Xining, the pond covers and an area of 20
hectares, and is 30 meters in depth. Surrounded by 550
ancient species of trees, including spruce and Huashan
pines, this place is truly heavenly. Among the dense forest,
there are rare animals and birds, including blue sheep and
snow cocks. An ideal health resort and place of meditation,
the place has become a state nature reserve.
Anyemagen Mountains
The lofty range of the Anyemaqen Mountains is composed of 13
peaks, averaging 5,900 meters above sea level. Legend has it
that living among these peaks are many mountain gods; wise,
kind-hearted, and loving who protect the local people from
evil spirits. Especially holy to Tibetans, Anyemaqen is
attractive for its unique land formation, changeable
climate, spectacular waterfalls, and various species of wild
animals.
Qutan Monastery
Every monastery in Tibet is full of history and unique in
it's own way. Some are small, others large, but all are
distinctly Tibetan with the carvings and colors in intricate
detail. Some are newly updated, others are worn and ancient,
both are intriguing.
The Qutan Monastery is located in Qutan township 25 km
southwest of Ledu County in eastern Qinghai. The township
itself is alluring, people in traditional dress and head
gear embracing their packages, chatting on the street, going
about their daily business, which probably hasn't changed
much over the past 2000 years. In Sanskrit, Qutan is said to be a
nick name of Gautama Siddhartha. The
Tibetan equivalent is Duojieqiang. It is now listed as one
of the oldest and largest Monasteries in Qinghai.
TIBETAN SHOPPING ARCADE
TIBETAN DINING
Find
everything and anything Tibetan at this market in Xining. The
area across from the main bus station on Jian Guo Lu has the largest Tibetan market in town.
Specialties
include Tibetan carpets, handicrafts, colorful cloth,
religious items, Tibetan hats and boots, traditional Tibetan
wear, Tibetan silver and turquoise jewelry, Tibetan music,
knives, traditional medicinal remedies, animal hides,
Tsampa, etc. This
area also has numerous Tibetan style restaurants and tea
houses. Xining boasts many night clubs that feature some of
the most famous singers from across Tibet. Don't hang around
this market at night, alone.
Tibetan and Muslim specialties
include Lamb Tenderloin (Feng'er liji), Kebab (Kao yangrou),
Yu Rangpi, Soup Cooked with Lamb and Oxen Entrails and Lamb
Liver. Sweet tea or yak butter tea is always on hand at a
very reasonable price. Although the yak butter tea is a bit
like half melted butter and half milk with a bit of salt, it
is an interesting experience.
The
sweet tea is yummy! A whole pot is usually less than a cup
of western coffee in the states. For breakfast you should really
try the tasty Tibetan or Muslim Yogurt, a naturally sour,
although often sweetened, cow/water-buffalo/yak yoghurt.
Also of interest, at least to watch, is the breakfast in the
old district of the city, where peasants will provide the
cow for your own milk (bring a glass and they will milk the
mama cow for you!). With a little tsampa, you'll be full for
hours!
Whether it is the astounding aqua blue color or
the mere mass of this lake, Qinghai Lake is the largest inland salt water lake in
all of Tibet and China. It lies northwest of the imposing
Qinghai Altiplano (plains), and 150 km (93.21 miles) away from Xining in
Qinghai Province. The name Qinghai means blue and it's a
blue you'll remember the rest of your life. The
kingdom of birds on the
island nearby, which can sometimes be
more than ten thousand in the summer, it really a stunning
sight.
The lake offers year-round attractions. Many
tourists prefer when it is a vivid green during the lively summer months, others
don't mind the stark nature of this blue paradise surrounded in white. During
the spring and summer the grasslands and mountains are blanketed with a luscious green
dotted with herds of
cattle and sheep. The banks of Qinghai Lake merge with vast blooming farmlands,
yellow yellow everywhere! The waves of wheat, salt in the air, and sweet
smelling flowers offer up a banquet for your senses.
In the evening, just before sunset, the water of the lake is very limpid
and reflects the stunning mountains, a mirror of delight. The colors change with
the seasons at Qinghai Lake. The summer aqua blue changes to azure and to
midnight blue and to a myriad of blues and greens that will astound you if you
hang out for a couple seasons. Called the
'Seven-Colored Lake' there are mysteries in this water, things buried, secrets
untold. The mouth of
the nearby river has a yellow color to it from the mass of fish that swim close to the
surface. In trying to count the number a bird species one realizes the
impossibility. The Kingdom of Birds covers this majestic lake like angels in
watch. Truly a bird watchers paradise, many travel here from the ends of the
earth to watch this splendid flock.
At different spots around the lake
you will find Tibetans, dressed in full regalia, waiting. But they are not
alone. With them are there most prized animals also dressed in full regalia,
combed like they belonged to kings. They wait to sell a photograph to you. Given
there options, selling their photographs to tourists keeps their children fed,
at least during the season. So hop on, pay the meager fee, take as many photos
as you want and feed a Tibetan family while you're at it. For on this journey to
Tibet, even given the beauty of the high plateau, it is the Tibetan people that
strain your heart and grant you those lasting memories. Stroll the shore and
remember how it used to be for these people who now make a meager living from
selling the only thing they have left - themselves in traditional wear.
At times, you will find Tibetans circumambulating the lake
as a they do koras around temples and other holy places. This process of prayer
and prostration, of walking around ancient holy ground, is a process to show
their humble respect to their religious beliefs, to gain favorable blessings, to
become the best person they can in this life, hoping for a better existence next
time. Please don't interrupt their sacred acts of piety, just enjoy witnessing
this centuries-old tradition.
Along the route back to Xining, you
will be able to stop and surf the sand dunes and visit the historic remains
left on the Tang-Tubo ancient road or the Silk Road. If you want to get the real
flavor of the Tibetans' living along this road, stop by one of the tents in the
pastures and have a chat. You'll likely be invited in for a cup of yak butter
tea by these warm and sociable people. This will be so much better if you have a
private guide to translate, but either way it will be a cherish memory you'll
never forget. You may be treated to a delicious or odd Tibetan dish, some tsampa
(sort of tastes like brown flour and brown sugar with a tiny touch of water for
glue - not bad) If you can, leave a small gift. It's not necessary, but its
kind. All in all, Qinghai Lake and its surrounding are a definite NOT-To-MISS
attraction.
Tibetans say that if the
Qinghai Lake was a crown on the head of the plateau, then the Bird Island would
be the largest pearl on it. The kingdom of birds
often has more than ten thousand beautiful flying creatures in the
summer. They flock to this place in spring from from faraway mountains
and deserts to breed here. In the noisiest months of April and May, they are
busy laying their eggs and fixing up new nests. With eggs interspersed all over
the island, Haixi Shan is also called 'Egg Island'. These waterfowl and birds
and their interesting behaviors are worth a half day if you have it. Just sit
along the shore and witness their play making and fun nonsense, which apparently
is perfect sense to them! Take a deep breath. The air here is healthy, clean and
salt layered, a curative in a a scene of enticing natural scenery. The island has been listed as a national natural reserve mainly for the
protection of birds.
The
name Qinghai means blue. There is a fairy tale that the
Qinghai Lake was
pooled by the homesick tears of Princess Wencheng. Actually
the stunning colors found here are due to the position of
the Tibetan plateau in relationship to the sun.
On your drive out to the lake, there is a beautiful green
mount with a statue of Princess Wencheng (the Chinese
princess who married a Tibetan king). It is surrounded by
thousands of yellow prayer flags, a few buildings, a pagoda
and a lot of Tibetan's selling their jewelry and souvenirs,
usually at hugely inflated prices. If you show interest
you'll likely be swarmed, but what a better way to get some
photos of real Tibetans at work. Exchange cameras with a
friend and be prepared. Having a
private Tibetan guide
means you won't overpay! Believe me, it's worth every dime
to have one!
And
remember bargaining is expected and even when you believe
you've achieved the ultimate at half price, it's still
likely four times the amount you'd pay at the Tibetan
market, IF you have your guide along. However, what else can
these Tibetan's do besides try to eek out a living by
selling things they can make. Look beyond this mount to see
their humble abodes, their few yak roaming. It's heart
rendering. With so few jobs open to Tibetans and their lands
taken from them, I enjoyed overpaying for my keepsakes,
knowing I contributed my share to their welfare. Just
remember, there are a lot more Tibetan's selling photography
and other odds and ends just around the next corner! So
choose carefully.
Kumbum is a must see.
The sight is most sacred due to the personages who have
graced it with their presence.
It's one of the remaining ACTIVE monasteries in Tibet. If
you're lucky or ask your guide, you'll be able to witness a
debate between the monks in the debating yard. The entire
monastery is a delight with monks in red robes running
around, some as young as eight! How cute! There are plenty
of prayer wheels to turn and chapels to prostrate in front
of. The colors on the refurbished entrances to some
buildings are truly breathtaking. Some places are not open
to visitors, so please watch the signs. It's crazy, but the
monks are allowed to stay here to maintain the monastery and
collect the fees from tourists, but it's "owned" like
everything in Tibet by the Chinese and the collected revenue
doesn't belong to the monastery or it's monks.
None-the-less, it is a good thing that it was not destroyed
during Mao's Cultural Revolution and still stands for
pilgrims and tourists to enjoy.
This
attraction is generally acknowledged to be one of the six
most important monasteries along with the
Ganden, Sera and Drepung
monasteries in the Lhasa area,
the Tashilhunpo Monastery in
Shigatse and the
Labrang Monastery in Xiahe.
In commemorating
the founder of the Yellow Hat Sect of Tibetan Buddhism, Tsong Khapa (1357-1419), the
Kumbum Jampa Ling
Monastery was built in 1577 more than 150 years after his
death. In the Tibetan language,
Kumbum Jampa Ling is translated as 'gongben', which means
'10,000 figures of Buddha'. During its long 400 years of
history, Tibetan monks and lamas of merit have lived in this
hillside monastery. Constructed on a slight mountain slope
on the edge of a wide valley, the monastery consists of a
several different prayer halls, an exhibition hall, monk's
dormitories and a range of pagodas. There are a total of
around 20,000 religious paintings and embroideries within
the walls of this sacred site, as well as numerous yak
butter sculptures and statuettes of Buddhas past, present
and future. Despite the destructive climate and an
earthquake in 1990, the monastery is in good condition.The
Great Hall of the Golden Roof and the Great Hall of
Meditation are the main attractions, but climbing up behind
the main buildings offers a wonderful view of the monastery
and valley below. Up here you will find the artisans at
work, carving, painting and restoring this glorious
building. The colorful gates of the Great Hall of the Golden
Roof are different in length, are carved into various flower
patterns and painted with mottled Tibetan colors. The
surfaces of the walls are covered with green ceramic tiles
and embedded with countless pearls, agates, and gems, making
the whole hall sparkle like a dream.
The main attraction at the Kumbum, besides the fascinating
artistic magnificence, are the famous butter sculptures
inside a building at the top of the hill. It's a bit of a
walk, but it's worth it. The butter sculptures are preserved
behind glass in a refrigerated environment so they don't
melt. Unlike the Butter Lamp
Festival held in Lhasa, this
display lasts year round so people can see the delicate
carvings and understand their intricacies. These famous
butter sculptures, the barbolas, and the murals are considered to be the three most
unique arts of superb craftsmanship at the monastery. While cruising through the
monastery, please be courteous to the monks or pilgrims
praying. Loud voices and laughter has it's place, but it
tends to disturb prayer and meditation. There are tour
guides who don't seem to have the slightest notion that this
is a holy place to Tibetans, that is it not a tourist site
to them. Give the parishioners space and respect just as you
would expect at your place of worship. Kindness and
thoughtful acts are gifts we can give over and over without
cost.
Every
year, four grand religious activities are held here between
the 14th and the 15th day of the first month and the fourth
month, the 7th and the 8th day of the sixth month, and the
22nd and the 23rd day of the ninth month, on lunar calendar.
The village and area around
the monastery is also worth seeing. The valley of fields
with stately mountains in the distance is great for hiking.
From higher up you can view the entire monastery and the
pilgrims who devoutly circle the monastery.
YAK BUTTER SCULPTURES
AT KUMBUM JAMPA LING MONASTERY/Ta'er
Qinghai province has a variety
of interesting art forms by way of its diverse cultural
population. Even among Tibetans there are hundreds of
different tribes with unique artistic styles. Especially unusual are the Yak
Butter Sculptures (Suyou hua or barbolas) that are made in and
around the Kumbum Jampa Ling Monastery. This style of art was
first developed in Tibet more than 1,300 years ago. The sculptures are mostly
carved during the cold temperatures of winter when the yak oil is easier to
mold and quicker to harden. Local artists create a multitude
of forms including scenes, Buddhas, people, flora, fauna, landscapes & ancient
architectural representations. During the annual
Lantern Festival, usually during
January or February at the close the the New Year
festivities, you can see the best of the best yak butter
sculptures.
With
a total area of 7,200 hectares,
Kanbula National Forest
Park is located in the northwest of Jianzha County
and beside the Lijiaxia Reservoir area.
It's about 131km away from Xining, faces the Yellow River
and is close to Lijiaxia Hydropower Station.
You can get there by local bus from Xining, passing through
Tibetan villages along the way. Outside the park is a small
town with a hotel, or try sleeping at the cafe next to the
river on cushions in a private dining room they can make
into sleeping quarters for the night!
It is difficult to describe this massive red-rock area with
spires and vertical columns,
towering like castles, unless you've been to Bryce National
Park in Utah, USA. Still, at such a high altitude and with
so much massiveness, overlooking the astounding azure blue
reservoir as you climb the switchbacks, there is truly no
comparison to the stunning awe of this place. There's a
daily fee now with time limits, so start early.
This
high mountain, deep valley, thick woods and quiet
environment is composed of mountains, deflated hills and
small intermountain basins. The highest peak is Shenbao
Mountain, whose elevation is 4,614m. With these red
land formations, a monastery and nunery hidden in the midst
with scenerary out of a story book, breathtaking is the only
description that fits. One of the later forms of Tibetan
Buddhism was born in this place among these peaceful people.
Now a new Chinese nature researve, this land is no discovery
for Tibetans who have lived among this serenity for
thousands of years.
Take your time. Take the drive
all the way to the end of the pavement, then keep going
along the dirt road, along the riverbed which eventually
winds back up inside to the heart of the mountain where
you'll find the Ahqiong Nanzong Temple, the Nanzong Buddhist Nunnery, Zanzongzha
Temple and Gabu Temple. All these edifices have a history more
than 1100 years. Nanzong Temple and Nanzong Buddhist Nunnery
are the only religious Buddhist places where monks and nuns
coexist with each other in Qinghai Province China.
At the end of the road just past the nunnery, you see a red
staircase hewn out of the rock, strung with prayer flags.
It's a climb, maybe 30 minutes, but at the top is a rather
new chapel and the views of the vast open red mountain
ranges, and the delicate monastery and meditation caves
below will take your breath away. Take water and mosquito
repellent! Be sure to stop by the river bottom when you
exit. Find the cafe along the water and enjoy the sunset!
Amdo is the birth place of Tenzin Gyatso, the 14th Dalai Lama. He was
born in Taktser, Tibet, a fertile village set at the top of a mound and
overlooking vast mountain ranges. The population has
changed, but it's still an interesting adventure. If it is not blocked off, it would be a
delightful visit
for those interested in Tibetan Buddhism.
Born to a peasant family in
northeastern Tibet, Lhama Dhondrub (his birth name) was soon recognized as the 14th
"Dalai Lama"
(Mongolian for "Ocean of Wisdom"). In Tibetan Buddhism, the Dalai Lama is
believed to be an incarnation of Avalokitesvara, the Buddha of Compassion. This
is how it works; when
the Dalai Lama dies, his soul is believed to pass into the body of an infant.
Watch the movie "Kundun" to really understand the
intricacies of the identification process. Upon recognition, Lhama Dhondrub was renamed Jetsun Jamphel Ngawang Lobsang
Yeshe Tenzin Gyatso, and is referred to as Yeshe Norbu, the Wishfulfilling Gem
or Kundun. Trained as a monk, when the Dalai Lama was a teenager he became the
head of the Tibetan government in their fight against the occupying forces of
the People's Republic of China. Since 1959 the Dalai Lama has been the leader of
the government in exile in Dharmasala. His travels in the cause of peace and a free Tibet have
made him an international celebrity, and in 1989 he was awarded the Nobel Peace
Prize.
Interesting and sad to note,
but in 1953, there were estimated to be 100,000 Chinese in the province of
Qinghai, most of which is made up of the Tibetan province of Amdo. In 1985,
there were 2 5 million Chinese and 0 75 million Tibetans in Qinghai (Chinese
Statistical Yearbook 1985). The resettlement process is evident to any
visitor. Tibet is no longer Tibetan. For example, in 1985, out of 40 families in Takster, the Dalai Lama's
home town, only eight were Tibetan. There were no Chinese households during his
childhood (1930s).
There is a beautiful
song, Qinghai, sung by a Tibetan female vocalist, that is
very popular (2008). Without even understanding the words,
one can feel the emotion and understand the pain of losing
one's homeland, one's identity. You can purchase VCD's from
many shopping areas in Xining or in the Barkhor in Lhasa.
With video of Tibetan lands, grasslands and homeland, and
lyrics almost cried, they are my most treasured souvenirs of
Tibet.
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